Horticulture August 2024 Newsletter
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Planting Warm Season Vegetables
The last planting of the warm-season vegetables occurs in the month of August. These warm-season vegetables need to have a short number of days to mature to insure they will be harvestable before frost. Beans and summer squash can be planted early in the month. Cool season crops can also be planted in August. Examples of these cool season crops are carrots, beets, cabbage, broccoli, kale, turnips, etc.
The fall in Kentucky can be a better season for these cool-season crops than the spring. Temperatures are normally cooler and insect pressure is usually lower. During the first week of August, seed these cool season crops in trays to have as transplants.
August is usually hot and dry. Be sure to monitor your garden and supply irrigation when necessary. Apply water so the soil is wet to a depth of 6-8 inches. This amount of water will provide for the needs of the plants for about a week depending on temperature and humidity levels.
August Calendar of Events
Unique Alternative to Common Houseplants by Karena Stauffer, Master Gardener
Alternative to Golden Pothos is the Cebu Blue Pothos.
Staying in the same family means Cebu Blue Pothos will be just as easy and lush as its more popular sibling, there are many varieties of pothos available but in my experience, the Cebu Blue is the only variety that can genuinely keep up its growing pace with the Golden Pothos. Unique, sharp blue leaves give off a mysterious vibe as its perky vines can trail from ceiling to floor.
Alternative to String Of Pearls is the String Of Hearts.
String of Pearls have always been loved for their unusual appearance, but are known to be difficult to keep. String of Hearts shares a similar appearance with easier care. The firm heart-shaped leaves are silvery and backed with purple tones, and with the variegated form, sporting gorgeous pink splash patterns.
Alternative to Aloe is the Agave.
Aloe is known for its drought tolerance and medicinal qualities, and both traits are shared with Agave plants. Agave's thinner, firmer leaves make it less susceptible to damage, and some varieties can grow over 5 feet wide.
Alternative to ZZ Plant is the Chinese Evergreen.
ZZ plants are known for their low light tolerance and low care, Chinese Evergreens offer this but in a much wider variety of stunning colors and combinations. The plants themselves also give a much fuller appearance. There will certainly be the perfect color to suit your space!
Horehound by Karen Redford, Master Gardener
I have stumbled upon something that took me down memory lane. I had never seen this before and this interested me. My dad loved Horehound candy and Black Jellybeans, which I think are both disgusting. Either way, my dad would always offer me Horehound candy when I was a child and was sick with a cold or sore throat. Just the thoughts of eating Horehound candy seemed to make me sicker! But recently I came upon this and I had no clue that it came from a plant.
Horehound (Marrubium vulgare) comes from the mint family and is a perennial called “Labiatae.” I had never heard of this, much less seen one. The plant has many branches and herbaceous stems, wrinkled leaves and small white or purplish flowers on it. It is grown from either seed or root divisions. It is planted in the spring. Wherever you want it to be is where you need to plant it because it doesn’t like to be disturbed. Cutting of young shoots may be rooted in July. This herb is mostly grown for use to make Horehound candy. It is also used for throat lozenges to help with coughs.
I found this recipe for Horehound candy:
Place 1 heaping tablespoon of dried Horehound herb in 1 cup of boiling water, seep for 30 minutes and strain. Add 2 cups of granulated, dark brown sugar, 1/2 cup of dark Karo syrup, and 1 teaspoon of butter (margarine can substitute). Cook to hard-ball stage and pour on buttered cookie sheet. If you want more of Horehound flavor, steep 2 ounces of the dried herb in 1 1/2 pints of boiling water for 30 minutes. Strain and add 4 pounds of dark brown sugar. Cook to hard-ball stage. Hard-ball stage is considered reached when a few drops harden in a cup of cold water. When candy has hardened in the pan, break up as desired.
Good Luck! I hope you like it better than I do. My husband even likes it, but it’s one thing I really don’t see myself making anytime soon, but I know a lot of people do like it. Just thought some of the gardeners might want to give it a try.
Happy gardening, and be blessed, and a blessing to others. Make them some Horehound candy!
Simple Dried Herbs by Laura Howard, Master Gardener
Summer time is great for us gardeners as there is a plethora of flowers, fruits, vegetables, and herbs to harvest fresh from our land. But as August turns into fall and then the winter months, don’t forget that herbs can be harvested and dried for use during the colder season. Now is a great time to start harvesting and drying those herbs to stock up for winter cooking!
Pretty much any herb can be dried for later usage, and the the two most popular methods are air drying or utilizing a dehydrator. Either way you go, cutting your herbs in the morning is optimal as this is when the essential oils of the herb are at their best.
Air drying can be the easiest method -- simply cut your herb with a sharp, clean shear and then rinse in cold water to remove dirt, bugs, and other toxins. Pat dry. Remove the lower leaves from the stems leaving an inch to an inch and a half of bare twig. Bundle the stems and tie with twine, string, or fishing line. Then hang to dry. The key to the air drying method is to find a place that is cool, dry, and dark. The biggest worry with air drying is the presence of mold when exposed to too much moisture. If any herbs do appear to have mold beginning throughout the process, throw them away so as not to contaminate any further bundles. Also, keeping the herbs away from light will help to preserve the herb characteristics so that the flavor is not striped.
Herbs are air dried after a week (minimum) to three weeks, depending on the herb variety. Remember, the key is to making sure all the moisture is gone from the leaf to ensure sustainability. Stems should feel brittle and easily crack - this is how you know the herb is fully dried. If there is still bendability to the herb, keep air drying. Keep in the hanging position until the stem has that crisp crack!
The dehydration method uses a machine called a dehydrator to remove the moisture from the herb. Most all of your dehydrators come with multiple trays. Place the herbs on these trays making sure to leave enough space in between each stalk. Rotate the trays throughout the process. Some tray placements will dry out faster than others, and rotating ensures each tray will process accordingly. Just as with air drying, you will know the herb is fully dried when it cracks instead of bending. Most herbs take six to eight hours to dry in a dehydrator, but each model is different so make sure to read the manual prior to dehydration for adequate settings.
Once dried, regardless of the drying method, store in an airtight container and keep out of direct light. I like to use canning jars but will also repurpose other glass containers once they are cleaned. Glass is preferred over plastic to help preserve the herb. After the stalks are removed from the hanging position, strip the leaves from the stem and place in the jar. Crushing is best left for when the herb is actually being used in cooking as it will preserve the flavor. When cooking, do remember that dried herbs have a more concentrated flavor than fresh - so less is more!
Dried herbs have many uses - from cooking, to teas, to accent flavors. A great way to use dried garden herbs is in a compound butter. Enjoy using the recipe below, or create one of your own for a fun cooking experience!
Italian Herb Compound Butter
1/2 cup pure, unsalted butter - store bought or homemade
1/4 cup of chopped herbs - thyme, oregano, rosemary, and basil (equal parts)
* Set out butter to soften in a medium glass bowl
*While butter is softening, chop each spice
*Once butter is completely softened (not melted) add the chopped herb mixture to the bowl and mix well
*Place the herb butter in the middle of a decent sized piece of parchment paper and roll up to form a log
*Place in the refrigerator for an hour to harden, or use immediately, if desired
Bean Angular Leaf Spot
Angular leaf spot is a common disease of beans in Kentucky. Leaves, stems, and pods may become infected. A combination of cultural practices and fungicides are critical for disease management to limit damage and yield losses.
Angular Leaf Spot Facts
- Leaf symptoms first appear as gray to dark-brown irregular or angular spots with necrotic centers and yellow halos. Fungal reproductive structures (conidia) may form on the undersides of affected leaves during periods of high humidity. Over time, leaf spots may coalesce, leading to defoliation. Infected stems and petioles exhibit elongated lesions.
- Pods may also become infected. Large, circular, reddish-brown lesions with concentric rings (bullseye appearance) develop on affected pods. Storage conditions may encourage disease spread; thus, infected pods should be discarded.
- Causal fungus is introduced via infected seed or crop debris.
- Angular leaf spot is spread by water, such as irrigation or rain.
- Warm, wet conditions and periods of high humidity favor disease development.
- Angular leaf spot is caused by the fungal pathogen Phaeoisariopsis griseola.
Management
- Purchase certified disease-free seeds.
- Utilize resistant cultivars.
- Rotate away from legume crops for a minimum of 2 years.
- Increase plant spacing.
- Remove and destroy infected plants or plant parts during the growing season.
- Avoid overhead watering.
- Remove and destroy plant debris at the end of the season.
- Deep till plant debris.
- Do not save seeds from infected plant material.
Commercial growers can find information on fungicides in the Vegetable Production Guide for Commercial Growers (ID-36) and the Southeastern U.S. Vegetable Crop Handbook. Homeowners should consult Home Vegetable Gardening (ID-128) for fungicide information or contact a county extension agent for additional information and recommendations regarding fungicides.
By: Kim Leonberger, Plant Pathology Extension Associate and Nicole Gauthier, Plant Pathology Extension Specialist
Upcoming Events Flyers: Horticulture Judging, National Farmers' Market Week, 4-H Horticulture Club, 4-H Entomology Club
Corn & Sweet Potato Confetti Salad
