Horticulture May 2024 Newsletter
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Tick Protection by Kara Back, Extension Agent for Horticulture
If you have been enjoying the outdoors this year, you probably have picked up an unwanted pest. Ticks are now active all year in Kentucky. The blacklegged tick is actually very active in the fall and any day in the winter when temperatures reach above 39.2° F. Blacklegged ticks can transmit Lyme disease.
The American Dog tick was at one time about the only tick we had in this area of Kentucky. These ticks can transmit Rocky Mountain Spotted Fever. They can also spread two different species of Ehrlichiosis caused by bacteria, and another bacteria which can cause Tularemia.
The Lone Star tick also can transmit Ehrlichiosis and Tularemia. What they are most known for is their bites leading to Alpha-gal syndrome. Alpha-gal is a meat allergy. As the tick feeds, it transfers a sugar molecule called Alpha-gal into the body. It can trigger your immune system causing an allergic reaction to beef, pork, deer or lamb. It can also cause an allergy to dairy products! These are not all the diseases these ticks can cause, and there are many diseases your pets can get too. Please talk with your vet on proper treatment for your pets and livestock.
There are several options humans can do to protect themselves from ticks. Permethrin sprayed on clothing (not skin) repels them very well. Keeping your yard mowed is helpful too. If you have a tick bite you use tweezers to grab as close to your skin as you can at the head of the tick. Freeze the tick in a plastic bag in case you develop any symptoms.
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Growing Potatoes, It's Not Too Late and You can Create Some New Garden Space in the Process by Starr Garrett, Master Gardener
Planting potatoes in boxes is a good way to create a new flower or garden bed. As a slow gardener, I like to start projects a little bit at a time increasing my planting space over the course of several years. Growing potatoes in cardboard boxes is one way to gradually increase your planting space without being overwhelmed with too many new projects at any given time.
To grow potatoes in boxes, select a cardboard box that is one to two feet wide and at least 18 inches tall. It is ok if there is printing on the box, but it should be matte and not shiny. After removing all the labels and tape from the box place it where you would like to grow your potatoes and make your new garden bed. Fold the bottom of the box together, put it in place, and add six inches of soil to the box. Place your seed potatoes on the soil and lightly cover them within another inch of soil. Choose potatoes with at least two eyes. If you cut large potatoes into several pieces, each with two eyes, set them out to let the cut sides dry before planting.
As your plants grow, add soil around the potato plant, always leaving at least two inches of the plant above the soil line. Once your soil gets to the top of your box, just let the plants keep growing. No more soil is needed. Potatoes like lots of water while they’re growing, but make sure there’s somewhere the soil doesn’t get waterlogged. If your leaves start to yellow and die back, your plant may be too wet.
When your potatoes are ready to harvest, usually in 90-120 days depending on the variety, the whole plant will start to die. Once all the leaves are turning brown and papery, stop watering the plant. You want to give the soil a chance to dry out before you harvest your potatoes, usually a couple of weeks. Once the soil is dry, it’s time to harvest! Usually by this point, your cardboard boxes will have broken down considerably, and you’ll be able to tear them away from the soil with your hands. Put on some gloves, start at one end of your new garden bed, and gently sift through the dirt to find your little round treasures—potatoes!
Once you have all your potatoes, arrange the soil into the garden bed area. Don’t try to remove the cardboard. It will disintegrate. Be sure to bury any larger pieces under some soil. Cover your bed with mulch, and you’re ready to plant your next crop whether that’s vegetables or flowers.
While potatoes are a cool season crop, according to the UK Center for Crop Diversification Crop Profile, “Early potatoes are planted March 15 to April 10 while a late crop is planted from June 15 to July 15” in Kentucky. So, it’s not too late start your potatoes. They can be planted in a variety of ways. Give a clean cardboard box a try this summer!
Full Sun, Partial Shade, What Does That Mean? by Ailene Foster, Master Gardener
You are browsing the nursery for spring and summer plants to decorate and beautify your landscape. You see those tabs inside the pots that say full sun, partial shade, and full shade. Exactly what does that mean? Well, it’s a description of the needs of the plant. It tells you how much sunlight or shade that specific plant needs to grow, thrive and stay healthy.
FULL SUN means the plant needs to receive six to eight hours of direct sunlight between the hours of 10:00 a.m. and 4:00 p.m. While many plants need full sun to set buds and flowers, some cannot tolerate the intense heat and dry conditions that comes with full sun exposure. The vast majority of flowering annuals and perennials need full sun. Remember to keep them well watered.
PARTIAL SUN/PARTIAL SHADE are used interchangeably to mean four to six hours of sun exposure in the cooler hours of the day. However, there is a slight difference. Partial sun needs several hours of sun to set flowers and fruit. They do not need as much sun as full sun plants. Partial shade plants need to rest from intense heat of the late afternoon sun. You can accomplish this by planting them near a structure that blocks some of the suns rays. Impatiens, crossandra, and most begonias are good examples of plants that need partial shade.
DAPPLED SUN is similar to partial shade where the sun comes through the branches and foliage of deciduous trees. It is important to watch the moisture content of the soil when you plant beneath trees because tree roots absorb groundwater and smaller plants may need extra water to survive and establish themselves.
FULL SHADE does not mean NO sun. Very few plants, except mushrooms, can tolerate a complete lack of sunlight. Full shade plants need less than four hours of full morning sun, late afternoon sun, or a full day of dappled sun. Hosta, astilbe and coral bells are good examples of plants that do well in full shade.
Decide where you are going to place your plants and how much sunlight the area will get. The best time to determine that is May through July when the trees have fully leafed out. When you have determined the amount of sunlight, then choose plants that match the conditions of your chosen site.
The real gauge to see if your plant is in the right location is how well it is growing. If it has scorched or burned leaves, or the flowers are lanky and leaning in search of sunlight, then the plant may not be in the proper location.
Beautiful healthy plants are eye catching and add beauty to your gardens, landscape and home.
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Gardening Tips by Karen Redford, Master Gardener
I have found an interest in learning about planting by the Zodiac signs. I recently have come upon an interesting book that has lots of information that I find could be very helpful. The book is written by Louise Riotte called “Planetary Planting”. Louise Riotte is the author of many books about gardening. I went out to the Taylor County Public Library to see what I could find, and unfortunately, they didn’t have any by this author available, but they requested one from a different library for me. This was an awesome find!
For planting tomato seeds, Louise follows Cancer, Scorpio, and Pisces with the moon phase in the second quarter. Cancer is noted for fruitfulness, Pisces for good root growth, and Scorpio for sturdiness and good vine growth. Capricorn and Taurus are hardy, but drier, and is a bit more resistant to drought and disease.
Riotte gives some tips for planting tomatoes. She states that she usually started her own seeds, because she can choose as many varieties as she wants. She starts her seeds out in a cold frame that her husband built out of an aluminum door. He replaced the broken glass with clear heavy weight plastic. It’s on hinges, in a slanted position on a foundation of cement blocks. She uses one part compost to two parts sand, which helps with easy transplanting. This prevents damaging when pulling out the plants, which helps the tender plants come on with a better start. If you don’t have a seed bed to start out with, you can start them inside using plastic cartons; fill your carton will soil and cover the seed with approximately 1/4 inch of soil, making sure there are drain holes in the bottom of the pot. She lets it sit in a few inches of water to absorb moisture through the bottom, then places them where they can drain. Next, she places them in a large, tied plastic grocery bag, acting as a miniature greenhouse.
For added warmth in her seedbed frames, she builds up the sides of the frame with mounds of leaves or grass clippings. The frame stays warm inside so the moisture collects on the plastic, and drops back on the seedlings just a like a warm rain. She only waters as needed, and transplants after there is no danger of frost.
A few of her tomato plants are given her red-carpet treatment when transplanted. This treatment involves digging a hole about two feet deep. In the bottom she places three to four inches of corncobs, or cornstalks. Then a layer three to four inches deep of manure, whether it’s chicken, cow, or whatever you have available. If you have fish residue, place that in the hole as well. Next, add four to five inches of good garden soil. Before placing the plant in the hole remove the leaves from the sides, leaving only the main branches at the top. Place the plant in the hole, and cover the stem up to about three to four inches from the main branches. The corncobs or stalks will hold in moisture causing the manure to heat, and in turn causing the soil to warm. It’s almost like growing in a hothouse.
This is just a drop in the bucket of ideas that Louise explains about different kinds of vegetables. She has many hacks about growing different things, and when to plant them. I will try to find more of her books as she has a way of explaining how to do things that is easy for me to understand. That in itself is something! Look up her books; I believe you will be glad you did. In the meantime, Happy Gardening! Be blessed and be a blessing to someone else!
Office closing for the Memorial Day holiday.
Variegated Alocasia Frydec by Jennifer Tungate, Master Gardener
The variegated Alocasia Frydec is a unique, rare and stunning house plant. The leaves have defining features such as its dark, velvet-like leaves, the notable variegation in the form of creamy white to silvery vein patterns, and the arrow or heart-shaped leaf structure. The scientific name for this plant is Alocasia Micholitziana Frydec.
Alocasias do best in bright, indirect sunlight. The variegated Alocasia Frydec will need brighter lights for longer periods each day, due to the variegated leaves because the white portions of the leaves do not contain chlorophyll, and will not photosynthesize to produce energy. Alocasias are native to very humid and tropical environments. Too much direct sunlight can burn its leaves, while too little light can lead to a leggy growth. If you live in a dry place, you can use a humidifier or trays of water to increase the humidity in the air around your tropical plant. Consider placing your Alocasia in a room with increased humidity such as a bathroom or laundry room. It is best to place Alocasias in an east-facing window.
The Alocasia Frydek likes to be slightly root-bound and only needs to be repotted once every two to three years. Repotting is best if done in the spring or early summer when the plant is no longer dormant. Select a pot that is one to two inches larger in diameter than the current pot. Water only when the top 25 percent of the soil is dry during the spring and summer months; reduce watering in the fall and winter to avoid overwatering. This plant is very sensitive to dry soil, so choose a potting soil that retains moisture. A good soil will drain well and contain lots of organic matter such as coco coir or sphagnum moss. Over watered Alocasias can appear to have fungus on the soil, mushiness in the stem or mushy spots appearing on the leaves, or a foul smelling potting mix.
Spring or summer is the best time for propagation by looking for new root activity or new leaves. Use sterilized tools for division keeping roots intact. Root cuttings can be placed in water or in soil. Dead or damaged leaves should be pruned.
Although Alocasia plants make stunning house plants; they can be harmful if the plant material is chewed on or swallowed. These plants contain oxalate crystals that can cause mouth pain, nausea, vomiting and diarrhea. They should be kept away from children and pets.
Asparagus Tomato Salad Recipe
